scalebirdman

My Feedback: (6)

This may not be the exact vendor I got them from.. I didn't keep the link, but should be virtually identical

https://ja.aliexpress.com/item/10050...Cquery_from%3A

planenutzz

thanks for that

planenutzz

Those who already have one of these flying what type of stand are you using to transport it?

planenutzz

Cowl flaps are done, used some alloy. Worked ok and will be plenty of exit area.
Need to finish the cowl mounting next, holes to be drilled through the firewall and Tee-nuts epoxied to the cowl brackets I fitted.

scalebirdman

My Feedback: (6)

Guys, I decided to horse trade my T-28 for a Pilatus PC-21 That is close to being ready to fly. Realistically it will be a year or more before I can dedicate time to finish it. Good luck to you all. I'll continue to follow the thread and when time permits, I plan to grab another one as I love the plane.

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

I am the new owner of Robert's T-28 and I am looking forward to getting this flying! Plan is for a 150 or 180 Radial. I am working on a Paul Weiss 1/3 Fleet Biplane with UMS 150 radial and once that is complete I will be on the T-28! I am really hoping to get it flying before the end of the flying season!

planenutzz

Welcome to the thread, good to see another one on the go. Share ideas and progress with loads of photos.
cheers
me

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Thanks and will do!

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

If you don't mind, could you share the part numbers you ordered? I plan on running the same prop setup and did Christian put the nomenclature and paint the prop arcs? Thanks.

planenutzz

Did a bit after work, cowl flaps are done. Need to touch up paint in a couple of spots, only minor.
Cowl mounting system is done.
More Savox servos arrived.
Pilots should arrive this week.
Got a BoM for a couple of vendors that I will get orders in for after pay day.

planenutzz

yes he did all of that.

Note I purchased a spare set of painted and balanced blades as well. Hold on to your wallet if you go this prop route. Not sure what I was thinking at the time but the money is spent .


Maximum RPM

1/min Drilling(hole)/ EURO

Qty It.-No. Si. Description electr.| gas Diamtr.(rotor) ges.

__________________________________________________ _______________________________________________



1 31432 32i 3-Blade-Hub - | - 14.0 Millimeter

1 SS70-32K 32i Scale-Spinner Cup 32i - | - Diameter: 70mm Small, M4

1 777777 32i Adapter Threaded Rod - From M4 up to M5

1 F10YY32 32i Special-Motorflansch 32i, Vers. B - | - Di=10mm, 6xM5 im TK=40mm

6 744-32 32i CFK-Propellerblade HS 6200 | 5900 29.3" 74.40 cm

6 999999 32i Cut Down & Balance of Propeller Blade - D=620mm

6 888888 32i Paint-Work of Propeller Blade Tips - Double white / red

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Awesome thank you for that. I really appreciate it. That will save time in the ordering process. I really like Christian's stuff and it's not the cheapest solution, but good quality with great customer service, so I keep buying from him! This will be my fourth blade setup from him!

planenutzz

no worries! Glad to help. Nothing with this hobby is cheap and all is getting more expensive.

I'm trying to find a baffle for the UMS 180. Once chap in Germany said he had them but wanted 46 euros plus about same for shipping.
Man I baulked at paying that for piece of 3mm plywood!!
I think CH Ignitions in US has one but would like to see a photo of them. I did ask Adrian for a photo.

cheers
me

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Agreed, everything seems to be much more expensive these days!

I can design and make one for you and laser cut it or use the CNC Router. I will more then likely need one in mine, but I am leaning towards the Moki 180 for header clearance. I am working on a template to check. I may also see if Adrian can make a custom exhaust for the UMS 180 with the outlets on the side in the full size location. Lots of things to think about. I am also not ruling out Jim Kitt's electric StinGR reduction drives too.

Additionally, I usually weigh all the components and I did that today. It also helps Jim to do some calculations on the StinGR and three blade Vario Prop. Here is the snippet for reference and if anybody wants the spreadsheet to use as they add components, please feel free to reach out. I would imagine all the airplanes are relatively close. I do this and then verify how close I got when I put it on the Xicoy CG pucks. Talk soon.

planenutzz

thanks for that, would be very interested in a getting a baffle from you and happy to pay reasonable costs.
That spreadsheet would be handy. I did think to weigh all bits before starting then forgot about it.

16.67kg is a good starting point to then add weight of engine, servos, cable etc. I would love this to be under 25kg AUW dry.

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Let me get to work on the baffle and see what I can come up with and we can work it out on price,

If you send me a PM with your email, I can send you the spreadsheet for you to use. The empty spaces with the zero with the formula are setup to add the weight of the components as I go.

planenutzz

thanks for that, PM sent. I have .dxf file for the Saito FG-90R3 in case you need it.
cheers
me

planenutzz

pilots arrived and have been working on assembling the bone domes. There are very basic ones. I have made some boom mics to jazz it up a little.
Will spray them white.

He seems happy with his office.

planenutzz

Been working out the wiring schedule, will be using 16 pin multi connectors.

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

Looking good! Love the wiring and pinout! I do the same thing and list everything out on the harnesses I build, just help to keep everything straight, with all the wires. I use the AMP D-3100 multi-pin connectors and pins. I also create a checklist/checkboxes for continuity checks and functional checks.

I have order confirmation from Christian at VarioProp and my set will ship on Feb 24th. I did order an extra set of blades as well!

We are back from the Las Vegas baseball tournament and will get working on the UMS Baffle! Talk soon!

planenutzz

I am still working on it, normally just do a pink / yellow line approach which is standard practice.
Block diagram is clunky but more of a memory jog for me. I haven't shown on/off switches, especially the powerbox as I may be able to get an extension and use standard connectors for it.
D-3100 series are pretty much what I was looking at, I can get them here. I did have a look at what Hacker offers but seems to be same product at a stupid price.

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

I like the block diagrams and I have to have the memory jogs as well and a lot of notes!

Those are the connectors I use. Here is a quick video on the wiring I did for a good friend with the AMP D-3100 connectors.

planenutzz

Nice job, I'm ex RAAF electronics tech and know all about strain relief on cable harnesses. Other critical point is not to have cable with tension at the pin/connector end. Releve that tension then strap it down.
One of our subjects was on making a harness for the F-111C, MIL SPEC multipin connectors are not fun.
I'm well out of practice with that stuff these days.
I do wish I had one of those label makers like you have, I have looked into the cost of them ouch $$$

I will most likely re-do the block diagram onto a seperate excel tab and add a few others things, make it less clunky. Was ok as a brain storm draft.
Keep up the great work.

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

It was my plan to use one of the engines (Moki 250,or UMS 260)I had available to power my TopRc T-28. Unfortunately, both engines are too large to work for this project without major mods to the front end of this model. Since I am unwilling to fork out the cash for another radial engine, would like to know if anyone has installed an electric power system in their TopRc T-28. If so, would like to know what electric motor and ESC were used?

JRSmith

My Feedback: (47)

I am planning on the Moki or UMS 180 in mine. Prefer the Moki with the smaller diameter.

Anyways, for electric, I would recommend Jim Kitt at StinGR reduction drive. We have been discussing electric with mine and he has a customer that is going with a StinGR electric setup in his T-28 and I may do that too, since it will fit fairly easy with the small footprint and no modifications. But I am saving up for the Moki 180 now.

Jim's site is: StinGR Reduction Drives

Jim also has six bolt hubs now, but a 34mm bolt circle diameter, so if you wanted to put a Vario or Solo Prop, you will need the flange for the Valach 250. I hope that helps and you are more then welcome to reach out, just send me a PM and I will forward my phone number. Thanks.